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Born: 2 May 1954

Married: 29 December 1990 to Rosie Grieves-Cook, 2 sons: Ollie (1991-2003) and Edmond (1993 –)

Education:
Charterhouse School: A levels in English, History, Music and Art
New College, Oxford University: A levels in English, History, Music and Art

Jobs held:
Virtually none!
1976: Stage technician for Glyndebourne Festival Opera
1979: School teaching in Oxford
1980 – 1982: School teaching in York

Other employment:
Carpenter, decorator and, since 1986, freelance writer, lecturer and broadcaster

Hobbies:
Playing the piano
Gardening
Climbing

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Early mountain experiences:
from 1963 Skiing and walking in the British hills and the Alps from 1963

1967-1970 First rock climbs at Pontresina (1967) and Fontainebleau (1970)

1972 First alpine climb in the Dauphiné


Best Alpine climbs:
Piz Badile Cassin Route, Aiguille Verte Nant Blanc Face, Droites NE Spur Direct, Gugliermina Gervasutti Pillar, Matterhorn Zmutt Ridge, Mont Blanc de Cheilon N Face, Aiguille du Plan N Face (solo), Aletschorn N Face (solo), Finsteraarhorn NE Spur (winter), Bietschorn SE Ridge, Eigerwand


Ski tours:
Haute Route, Dauphiné, Berner Oberland, South Georgia


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Best Himalayan expeditions:
1977

Hindu Kush – new routes on 5,000 m peaks

1980 Kunyang Kish – attempt on NW Spur

1983 Kishtwar Shivling – first ascent

1985 Rimo I – attempt on SW Ridge, first ascents of 6,000 m peaks

1987 Solu Tower first ascent and traverse of Karakoram
Pungpa Ri
new route on E Face and attempt on Shishapangma

1988 Everest new route on E Face and alone to summit without oxygen

1991 Kusum Kanguru – first ascent of S Ridge

1992 Panch Chuli V first ascent


Other expeditions and climbs:
1982 Peru and Bolivia – new routes in Cordilleras Vilcanota and Real

1990 South Georgia – first ascent of Mt Carse

1995 Tierra del Fuego – new route on Monte Sarmiento

2000 South Georgia – Shackleton crossing for IMAX movie

Various Also various climbing trips to East Africa, South Africa, Canada and USA


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Articles published
Climber, Climbing, Mountain, High, Alpine Journal, American Alpine Journal, Les Alpes, Rivista della Montagna, Rock & Ice, Desnivel, Vertical, GHM, Country Living, Gardens Illustrated, Geographical, Saga, Options, Yachting Monthly, Photographer, Condé Nast Traveller, Sunday Times, Observer, Mail on Sunday, The Times, Sunday Times, Daily Telegraph, Sunday Telegraph, The Guardian, The Independent, Financial Times


Books published
1986

Painted Mountains – Two Expeditions to Kashmir (Hodder & Stoughton)

1989 Everest Kangshung Face (now Everest Alone at the Summit) (Hodder & Stoughton)

1991 Island at the Edge of the World – A South Georgia Odyssey (Hodder & Stoughton)

1993 M for Mountains (Pan/Piccolo)

1996 Himalaya Alpine Style (Hodder & Stoughton + Germany, France, Japan and Italy)

2000 A Slender Thread (Hutchinson)

2003 To the Top – The Story of Everest (Walker Books)
Everest – Summit of Achievement (Bloomsbury/S.Schuster/Frederking & Thaler)


Columnist
1986-2000 High Mountain Sports magazine

2001-2003 DAV Panorama


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Broadcasting and film work
1988-2003

Various radio broadcasts and interviews including To the Third Pole

1991 Beating the Blizzards – Central TV/Nat Geo South Georgia documentary

2001
Shackleton's Antarctic Adventure – IMAX movie shot on South GeorgiaThe Matterhorn and the Misfit – BBC Mountain Men series
2003 The Race for Everest – BBC documentary on first ascent


Awards
1985 Kendal Film Festival still photography

1986

Boardman Tasker Award for mountain literature (for Painted Mountains)

1989+1991 Outdoor Writers Guild Awards

1996 Banff Festival Grand Prize (for Himalaya Alpine Style)

1991 Wild Country Foundation Adventure Award

1992 Shortlisted for Piolet d'Or

2004 Shortlisted for WHSmith Travel Book Award (Everest – Summit of Achievement)


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Honorary positions
1990-1993 Vice President – British Mountaineering Council

1992-1995

Vice President – Alpine Club

1997-2000 Chairman – Mount Everest Foundation screening committee

2000 Chairman – Polartec Challenge advisory board

2002 President – South Georgia Association


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Lectures & Presentations
Public and corporate presentations throughout Britain and in France, Spain, Germany, Switzerland, Austria, Italy, Czech Republic, Mexico, South Africa, Namibia, USA, Canada. Corporate clients include American Express, Apter International, Arthur Andersen, Booker Tate, Boots Healthcare, BP, Bristol Myers-Squibb , British American Tobacco, British Gas, Business Pursuits, Chase Manhattan, Civil Service College, Crown Agents, Domino Printing Sciences , Nestlé/Dairy Crest, First Bus, Flight Centre, Glaxo, Grand Metropolitan Estates, Harrison Crossfield, Henley Management College, Institute of Management, Kiln, Kodak, Lehman Brothers, Linton Park, Lloyds Bank , London Business School, Masterfoods, Mercury Communications, Ove Arup, PowerGen, Price Waterhouse Coopers, Shell, Sun Life of Canada, Tandem Computers, Telewest, West Canadian Wheat Growers' Association


Address
Stephen Venables
6 Grosvenor Terrace
St Saviour's Road
Larkhall
Bath, BA1 6SR
GB
+44 (0)1225 442 892
stephen@venables.ndo.co.uk
www.stephenvenables.com

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